The great orange torii gate of Itsukushima, standing in the sea off the island of Miyajima, is one of the most famous images of Japan. At high tide, it seems to float on the water; at low tide, you can walk out across the sand to its feet. The shrine behind it is built on piers over the bay, a series of halls and corridors painted vermilion and white, connected by boardwalks, so that it too seems to float when the tide is in. A shrine has stood here for well over a thousand years, and its present form owes much to Taira no Kiyomori, the powerful warlord who rebuilt it in the twelfth century. The island itself has long been considered sacred, so much so that in the past, births and deaths were not permitted on it. The shrine was listed by UNESCO in 1996, and the torii was restored a few years ago after a long period under scaffolding.
Miyajima is a short ferry ride from Miyajimaguchi, on the mainland southwest of Hiroshima. The simplest approach for a rider is to park at the terminal and cross on foot; the island is small and walkable, and its narrow streets are crowded with visitors. A small visitor levy is collected when you board the ferry. Tame deer wander everywhere, and they will eat your map, your ticket and your lunch if you let them. Above the town, Mount Misen rises steeply, reached by a ropeway and a walk, with views over the islands of the Inland Sea.
The local specialities are oysters, grilled on the street, and momiji manju, small cakes shaped like maple leaves and filled with sweet bean paste. Hiroshima's okonomiyaki, a savoury pancake layered with noodles, is worth seeking out on the mainland.
The roads around Hatsukaichi and along the coast are busy, with traffic lights and urban sprawl, but inland the hills of western Hiroshima prefecture offer quiet, winding mountain roads through forests and small villages. Japan drives on the left, and the speed limits are low and enforced.
Hatsukaichi and the Miyajimaguchi area have fuel, convenience stores and restaurants. Come early in the morning or stay into the evening, when the day-trippers have left and the shrine is lit up; check the tide tables to see the gate at high water.