The Via Appia, the queen of Roman roads, threads through a narrow valley in the Aurunci Mountains between Fondi and Formia, and Itri sits right in the middle of it, a hill town crowned by a medieval castle whose towers watch over the old road. For centuries, this pass was notorious for brigands, who preyed on travellers between Rome and Naples. The most famous of them, Michele Pezza, known as Fra Diavolo, was born here in 1771, and became a legend for his guerrilla war against the French occupation of southern Italy, before being captured and hanged in Naples.
Itri is also known for its olives. The Itrana variety, grown on the terraced hillsides around the town, produces the famous Gaeta olives, small and dark, as well as a fine olive oil. Above the town, on the summit of Monte Civita, stands the sanctuary of the Madonna della Civita, a place of pilgrimage with wide views over the mountains and the sea.
For riders, Itri is a practical fuel stop on the long ride south towards the Amalfi Coast. The town has fuel, bars and small restaurants, and a short espresso stop here sets you up nicely for the coast. The road through the valley is pleasant, winding between olive groves and rocky hills, and a short distance south, it reaches the sea at Formia, with views over the Gulf of Gaeta. From there, the coast road heads south towards Naples, passing through busy towns and heavy traffic, before reaching the Sorrento peninsula and the Amalfi Coast.
The mountains around Itri, the Aurunci, are a wild and little-visited range, with narrow roads climbing through woods and over passes, offering excellent riding and fine views. The roads can be rough and poorly maintained, with potholes and gravel, and they are often narrow and twisty, so ride carefully. Summers here are hot and dry, and spring and autumn are the most pleasant seasons. In winter, the mountains can be cold and windy.