The Aeolian Islands rise from the Tyrrhenian Sea north of Sicily like the tops of a drowned mountain range, which is more or less what they are. Seven main islands, Lipari, Vulcano, Salina, Stromboli, Panarea, Filicudi and Alicudi, are the summits of volcanoes, and two of them are still active: Stromboli, which has thrown out glowing fragments every few minutes for centuries and is known as the lighthouse of the Mediterranean, and Vulcano, whose steaming crater gave every volcano its name. UNESCO listed the archipelago in 2000 for its value in the study of volcanism.
Obsidian and pumice made the islands rich: in the Neolithic period, black volcanic glass from Lipari was one of the most valuable materials in the Mediterranean, traded across Italy and beyond for sharp blades. The castle hill in Lipari town holds a fine archaeological museum that tells this story, with Greek theatre masks, Bronze Age finds and a collection of old amphorae pulled from the sea.
Riding here is a short, sweet affair, and you must be willing to take a ferry or hydrofoil to start. Boats leave from Milazzo, on the Sicilian coast, and the larger ferries take motorbikes, although in summer you should book ahead. The roads on Lipari are narrow, with tight hairpins, sudden gradients and a rough surface in places, and the island loop, which takes under an hour to ride, offers striking views of the other islands floating on the horizon. In high summer the roads are crowded with scooters and minibuses, and parking in Lipari town is tight. Out of season the island is quiet, and the wind can be sharp.
Fuel is available on Lipari, though at island prices and in limited places, and you will find shops, restaurants and small hotels in Lipari town, with a smaller choice at Canneto. Pianoconte, in the hills above, has views over the sea. The wider choice of supermarkets and garages is on the Sicilian mainland, at places like Patti, thirty-odd kilometres away across the water, so fill the tank before you board.
Food is a joy: capers from Salina, Malvasia, a sweet golden wine from the islands, fresh fish, tuna, and granita with brioche for breakfast. Spring and early autumn are lovely, with warm seas and fewer people, while August is hot and busy.