Invercargill is the southernmost city of any size in New Zealand, a place of wide, flat streets laid out in a grid, low wooden houses, and a sky that is bigger and windier than you expect. Beyond it there is Bluff, the harbour town on the coast, and then a long stretch of sea before you reach Antarctica. About forty-seven thousand people live here, and the city likes to say it is the end of the line, which is a good reason to take a bike.
Motorcyclists have a special reason to know the place: Burt Munro, the Invercargill tinkerer who spent decades modifying an Indian motorcycle in his shed, took it to the Bonneville Salt Flats in the 1960s and set a land speed record for under a thousand cubic centimetres that still stands. The story was made into the film The World's Fastest Indian. Locals take it seriously, and every year the Burt Munro Challenge brings riders from all over for races and rallies. A hardware shop in town displays some of his history, and it is worth looking in.
The Southern Scenic Route ends or begins here, connecting Fiordland with the Catlins and Dunedin. Riding in this region is often wet, windy and cold, even in summer, and conditions can change within the hour, so carry proper layers. The roads are generally well maintained, with long straights and open views across farmland, sheep and dairy, and the occasional gravel section. Watch for strong crosswinds on exposed stretches.
All services are here. Fuel is easy to find, there are cafes and bakeries throughout the centre, and you might try bluff oysters in season, which runs roughly from March to August. Queens Park, near the centre, is a pleasant place for a walk, and the museum has a collection of tuatara, ancient reptiles that are the last of their kind. After a day in the wind, a warm meal is a proper reward.