Inuvik is the end of the road, quite literally. The Dempster Highway, a gravel road that runs for about 740 kilometres from near Dawson City through some of the wildest country in North America, finishes here, in the Mackenzie River delta, at the edge of the Arctic. The town was built in the 1950s to replace Aklavik, which was prone to flooding, and it was planned from scratch as an administrative centre, with a distinctive layout and utilidors, insulated pipes above ground that carry water and sewage, because the permafrost makes burying them impossible.
The population, about three thousand, is a mix of Gwich'in, Inuvialuit and settlers from the south. The best known building is the Igloo Church, officially Our Lady of Victory, finished in 1960, a white dome shaped like an igloo that is open to visitors. In summer, the sun does not set for several weeks, and in December, it does not rise. The Great Northern Arts Festival, held in July, brings artists from across the north.
Since 2017, a road has continued north from Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk, on the Arctic Ocean, and it allows you to ride to the coast, touch the water and turn around. The Dempster itself is a serious proposition. The gravel surface can be loose, rutted or slick, tyres are damaged by sharp shale, and the weather can turn quickly. There are ferries across the Peel and Mackenzie rivers in summer, and ice roads in winter. Services are sparse, with fuel at Eagle Plains and Fort McPherson, so fill up at every opportunity and carry spare tyres, tubes and tools.
Inuvik itself has fuel, shops, a few places to eat and places to stay, though in summer, it is wise to book ahead. Mosquitoes are fierce in July. The best time to ride is from late June to August, when the road is clear and the days are long. Take warm layers, because it can be cold even in midsummer.