Where the Rhine leaves Lake Constance at Stein am Rhein, a group of small islands sits in the river, connected to the shore by a wooden footbridge, and on the largest, Werd, stands a small chapel surrounded by trees and water. It was here, in 759, that Saint Otmar, the first abbot of St Gallen, died in exile after falling foul of powerful local nobles, and the island has been a place of pilgrimage ever since. Long before Otmar, people lived here too: the islands and the surrounding shores are among the Prehistoric Pile Dwellings around the Alps, a World Heritage site, and excavations have found traces of settlements from the Neolithic onwards.
Stein am Rhein, just across the water, is one of the most beautiful small towns in Switzerland. Its main square is lined with medieval houses whose façades are covered with colourful paintings from the sixteenth century, showing biblical scenes, historical events and allegories. The former monastery of St George, on the riverbank, is a well-preserved medieval complex, and on the hill above the town, the castle of Hohenklingen offers views over the Rhine, the Untersee and the hills of the Hegau in Germany, with their old volcanic peaks.
The roads around Stein am Rhein cross the border constantly, as the town sits on a narrow strip of Swiss land surrounded by Germany. To the west, the road along the Rhine towards Diessenhofen and Schaffhausen follows the river through vineyards and woods, and to the north, the roads of the Hegau climb towards the volcanic hills, with the castle ruins of Hohentwiel near Singen standing out on the horizon. The road along the Untersee towards Konstanz passes through charming villages, with views across the water to the island of Reichenau. Note that Swiss and German traffic rules differ, and fuel is often cheaper on the German side.
Stein am Rhein has cafés, restaurants and shops, and fuel is available in the nearby villages and in Rielasingen-Worblingen across the border in Germany. Try the local fish, such as perch or whitefish from the lake, and a glass of white wine from the vineyards of the region. On a summer evening, a stroll along the Rhine and across the footbridge to Werd, with the swans gliding on the river, is a perfect end to the day.