Imilchil is a village at the end of the road in the best sense, a high settlement of the Aït Haddidou Berbers on a plateau at over 2,000 metres in the central High Atlas. It is known for two lakes nearby, Isli and Tislit, whose names mean groom and bride in Tamazight, and for the legend that explains them. According to the story, a young man and a young woman from feuding tribes fell in love, were forbidden to marry, and cried so much that their tears filled two lakes. The tale is the origin of the annual marriage festival, held in early autumn, when people from many tribes gather at a large market and young couples may choose partners.
The ride there is wonderfully empty. From Midelt, the road crosses wide valleys and bare plateaus, with views of high ridges and herds of sheep and goats, and passes tiny villages of stone and clay. The surface varies, from good tarmac to broken patches and gravel, and sections can be damaged by winter weather, so ride carefully and keep your speed moderate. Because there are few other vehicles, a breakdown could mean a long wait, so carry tools, spare tubes and water.
Seasons matter. From about November to April, snow and cold can close roads or make them dangerous, while summer days are bright and warm but nights can drop sharply. Spring brings green pastures and streams, and the air is exceptionally clear. The lakes themselves are unadorned, shallow and windswept, with few trees, and they are better appreciated for their silence than for any spectacle, though the light at sunrise on the water is very fine.
No major towns lie close. Imilchil has basic guesthouses and simple cafés serving tagine and bread, and the people are hospitable but the infrastructure is modest. Bring cash, warm clothes and an open mind, and let someone know your route before you leave.