Off the coast of Rio de Janeiro state, between Rio and Paraty, Ilha Grande rises from the sea, a mountainous island covered in Atlantic rainforest, with dozens of beaches, coves and waterfalls. For much of the twentieth century, it was home to a notorious prison and a leper colony, which kept development at bay, and today, most of the island is protected as a state park. It is part of the UNESCO site Paraty and Ilha Grande, Culture and Biodiversity, listed in 2019.
There are no cars on the island, apart from a few official vehicles, so getting around is by foot or by boat. The main village, Abraão, is a lively place with guesthouses, restaurants and bars, and from there, trails lead through the forest to beaches such as Lopes Mendes, often ranked among the most beautiful in Brazil, and to the ruins of the old prison at Dois Rios. The forest is home to monkeys, toucans and other wildlife, and the waters around the island are clear and warm, perfect for snorkelling and diving.
The ride to the coast is a highlight in its own right. The Rio–Santos highway, the BR-101, runs along the Costa Verde, between the mountains of the Serra do Mar and the sea, with curves, climbs and views of islands, bays and beaches. Traffic can be heavy, especially on weekends and holidays, and the road can be slippery in rain. Boats to Ilha Grande leave from Angra dos Reis, Conceição de Jacareí and Mangaratiba, so you will need to park your bike on the mainland, ideally in a secure car park.
Angra dos Reis and Mangaratiba have fuel, shops and restaurants. The local cuisine is based on seafood, such as moqueca, a fish stew with coconut milk and palm oil, and fried fish with rice and beans. Bring sun protection, insect repellent and good shoes for the trails, and take your time to enjoy the island's relaxed pace.