No cars are allowed on Ilha do Mel, the honey island, at the mouth of the bay of Paranaguá in southern Brazil, and that is a large part of its charm. The island is a mix of sandy beaches, rocky headlands, mangroves and Atlantic forest, and most of it is protected as an ecological station and a state park. Its forests, beaches and mangroves are part of the Atlantic Forest South-East Reserves listed by UNESCO, a string of protected areas along the coast of Paraná and São Paulo that preserve some of the best remaining stretches of the Mata Atlântica. The number of visitors is limited, which keeps the island quiet even in summer.
The island has a small population living in fishing villages, such as Encantadas and Nova Brasília, connected by sandy paths. The Fortaleza de Nossa Senhora dos Prazeres, a Portuguese fortress from the eighteenth century, guards the entrance to the bay, and the lighthouse of Conchas, built in the nineteenth century on a hill, offers views over the island and the ocean. The Gruta das Encantadas, a sea cave, is the subject of legends about mermaids. Dolphins are often seen in the bay.
Your bike will have to stay on the mainland, but the approach is a treat. From Curitiba, the Estrada da Graciosa, a historic road built in the nineteenth century, descends the Serra do Mar through dense Atlantic forest, with cobbles, hairpins and viewpoints over the coastal plain. It is slow, beautiful and sometimes slippery when wet, so ride with care. The main highway, the BR-277, is faster. From Paranaguá or Pontal do Sul, boats cross to the island. Summer is hot and humid with heavy rain, while winter is mild.
Paranaguá has fuel and services, and Pontal do Paraná is the departure point for the shorter crossing, with secure parking for vehicles. On the island, there are simple restaurants and guesthouses, and the food is based on fish and seafood, with barreado, a slow-cooked beef stew from the coast of Paraná, as a regional speciality. Pack light, take the boat, and spend a day walking the beaches and forest trails; after the hairpins of the Graciosa, the silence of a car-free island is a gift.