The southern tip of São Paulo's coast frays into a maze of islands, channels and mangroves, and the largest of the islands, Ilha do Cardoso, rises from the sea as a forested mountain ridge. It has been a state park since the 1960s, protecting a remarkable range of habitats in a small space: mountain rainforest, restinga scrub on sandy soils, mangroves, dunes and long empty beaches facing the Atlantic. It is part of the Atlantic Forest Southeast reserves listed by UNESCO.
There are no roads on the island and no cars, so the only way to get there is by boat, usually from Cananéia, a fishing town on the mainland side of the estuary. Cananéia claims to be one of the oldest settlements in Brazil, founded by Portuguese and Spanish sailors in the early sixteenth century, and its colonial streets and waterfront have a sleepy, salty charm. The waters around are known for oyster farming, and dolphins are often seen in the channels. On the island, small communities of traditional fishermen, known as caiçaras, live in villages along the shore and welcome visitors.
The ride to Cananéia from the BR-116 is a pleasant one, through the lowlands of the Vale do Ribeira, past banana plantations, small towns and river crossings, with long straight stretches and some gentle curves. Traffic is light, but road conditions vary, and summer rains can bring flooding and potholes. From Ilha Comprida, a long barrier island linked by bridge, you can ride along the coast with the sea on one side and the forest on the other.
Fuel and food are available in Cananéia, where restaurants serve fresh oysters, grilled fish and seafood stews. The boat trip to Ilha do Cardoso takes around an hour and runs according to tides and weather, so check schedules in advance. On the island, there are simple guesthouses and campsites, and you can hike trails through the forest to waterfalls and lookout points. Bring insect repellent, sun protection and plenty of water, and leave your bike securely parked on the mainland.