Ierapetra is the biggest town on Crete's south coast, with a population of around twelve thousand, and it likes to describe itself as the southernmost town in Europe. Whether or not that is strictly the case, it faces the Libyan Sea and has the dry, bright climate to match. It is a practical, working place, and that is part of its appeal: fuel, banks, bakeries and a seafront promenade with cafes where people spend a long time over one coffee.
The town's history is layered. In the Roman period it was a significant city, and later the Venetians built a small fortress, Kales, at the harbour to protect against pirates and rivals. It still stands by the water, a simple square keep that is quietly impressive. Local tradition adds that Napoleon spent a night in a house in the old quarter on his way to Egypt, a story told with enough conviction that you may as well enjoy it. Wander the narrow streets near the harbour and you will find Ottoman-era features, a mosque minaret and a mix of old stone and whitewash.
Around Ierapetra the landscape is unexpected. The coastal plain is covered in plastic greenhouses, where tomatoes, cucumbers and other vegetables are grown for markets across Europe, thanks to the sunshine and mild winters. It makes for a slightly unlovely ride at times, but it is an honest piece of Crete's economy. Offshore lies the island of Chrissi, or Gaidouronisi, a sandy islet with a rare natural forest of cedar that you can visit by boat in season.
For riders, the town is a base for the south coast road and a sensible refuelling stop before heading along the coast toward Myrtos or up into the hills. The wind here can be strong and gusty, especially in summer when the meltemi blows, so keep a firm grip on the bars on exposed sections. Go in spring or autumn if you can, and choose a late lunch of grilled fish at the harbour before the evening promenade begins.