Athabasca Falls is not tall, only about twenty-three metres, but it makes up for its height with sheer volume. The Athabasca River, swollen with meltwater from the Columbia Icefield, funnels into a narrow gap in the rock and thunders over the lip into a deep, roiling pool. The whole canyon trembles with the force of it, and the spray hangs in the air, drifting over the viewing platforms and wetting your jacket even from a distance.
The rock beneath the falls has been scoured and polished by the water into smooth, sculpted shapes. Potholes, carved by stones spinning in eddies over thousands of years, pit the canyon walls, and the river has cut a gorge that continues downstream, with little footbridges and lookouts at several points. The quartzite rock is hard and resistant, which is why the falls remain a sudden drop and not a gentle cascade. The cliffs are slippery with spray, and fences keep visitors back, for the sake of safety as well as conservation.
For the rider, the falls lie just off the main parkway, a short turn onto an old road, with parking for cars and motorcycles. This part of the route is a calm, relaxed run beside the Athabasca valley, with the sharp peaks of the Jasper range on both sides and long, easy bends. The road is smooth and wide, and the traffic is steady but orderly. Early in the morning, when mist rises from the river, the ride is a delight.
Jasper is about thirty kilometres to the north, with fuel, food, supermarkets and accommodation, so this is a good point to plan your arrival. There are no services at the falls themselves, apart from basic facilities. Wildlife is common in the area, and elk graze in the meadows. Be careful on the roads at dusk, when animals cross.
If you have a spare hour, the path along the gorge is well worth the walk, and the footbridge gives a view straight into the roiling water. Wear sturdy shoes, since the rocks are slick. In late afternoon, when the light slants through the spray, the falls have a rainbow that appears and fades in the mist.