Mistaya Canyon is the kind of place you only find if someone tells you, and then you wonder how you almost drove past. A short, easy trail drops from a small car park through the forest for about ten minutes, and suddenly the river is below you, squeezed into a slot of smooth, grey limestone, spinning through potholes and polished chutes. The name is said to mean grizzly bear, and the water does have a muscular power as it pours through the narrow gorge.
The canyon was carved over thousands of years by the Mistaya River, which carries meltwater from the glaciers above. The river has cut down through the rock, scouring its sides into curved, sculpted shapes, and the sound of the water echoes between the walls. A footbridge crosses the gorge, giving a view straight down into the churning water, and you can stand quietly for a while watching the flow. In early summer, when meltwater is at its peak, the noise is considerable.
For the rider, this section of the parkway is a pleasant, relaxed ride. The road follows the river valley with long, easy curves, passing meadows, forest and the occasional view of high peaks. Traffic can be heavy in July and August, but there are plenty of pullouts, and the surface is generally good. Wildlife, including elk and bears, grazes beside the road, so stay alert.
A few kilometres farther on, the parkway reaches the Saskatchewan River Crossing, where the North Saskatchewan River meets the Howse and Mistaya rivers. This is the only place on the route with a petrol station, along with a cafe, a motel and a gift shop, so fill your tank here if you are heading north, or if you are heading south, top up for the last stage. Hours are limited in the shoulder seasons, and prices are higher than in town, but you will be glad of it. It is a good spot for lunch, too.
The best time to visit the canyon is early or late, when there are fewer people and the light is soft. Wear shoes with grip, because the rocks near the edge are wet and slippery. And keep to the trail and fences: the canyon looks beautiful, but the current is deadly.