Bow Lake is the source of the Bow River, the same water that eventually flows through Calgary, and it sits in a high, open bowl at the foot of the Bow Glacier. The lake is long and green-blue, rimmed by scree slopes and cliffs, and the peaks of the Waputik Icefield rise above it. On a calm morning, the surface reflects the mountains with such clarity that the picture looks the same upside down.
The old lodge on its shore, Num-Ti-Jah, was built in the 1920s and 1930s by Jimmy Simpson, a legendary outfitter and guide who came to the Rockies from England and spent his life exploring them. The building, with its distinctive red roof, is as much a part of the landscape as the mountains, and it still welcomes guests. A short walk along the lakeshore leads to views of the Bow Glacier Falls, where meltwater crashes from the ice in a plume.
Nearby, the Crowfoot Glacier hangs on a cliff above the road. It was named for its shape, three toes like the foot of a crow, though one of them has melted away in recent decades, a vivid illustration of how fast the ice is retreating. The glaciers here are shrinking, and scientists have recorded steady losses across the Rockies. You are looking at something that will look quite different for your grandchildren.
On the bike, this part of the parkway is a long, open run through wide valley bottoms, with a gentle gradient and superb views. The road is wide and smooth, and the corners are easy, so you can relax and watch the scenery. But take care, because motorists often stop suddenly for photographs, and wildlife can step onto the road. The weather is changeable at this altitude, and cold wind off the glacier can cut through a summer jacket.
Fill up at Lake Louise or at the Saskatchewan River Crossing to the north. The best time to arrive is early morning, when the lake is flat and the light is gentle on the ice. Bring a warm layer, because the lake is more than 1,900 metres above sea level and the air is often chilly, even in July.