Hyeopjae is the beach that makes people on Jeju stop talking. It lies on the west coast, a crescent of pale sand with palms standing along its edge and water that goes from clear green to turquoise in the shallows, and across the bay the small volcanic island of Biyangdo sits like a green hat on the horizon. The sand is white because it is made largely of crushed shell, rather than the black basalt that dominates elsewhere, and the contrast with the dark volcanic rocks at the ends of the beach is striking. The water is shallow and calm, which makes it popular with families, and at low tide the sand flats stretch far out.
Behind the beach is a landscape of lava. Jeju is a volcanic island, and under the surface are long tunnels left behind by flowing lava, some of which can be visited. The caves near Hyeopjae, in a nearby park, have a ceiling hung with calcite formations that are unusual in lava tubes, and they are lit for visitors. The park also has gardens with subtropical plants and a collection of stone sculptures, a pleasant place to spend a morning when the weather is dull.
The riding along this coast is relaxed, with open views and ocean light. The coast road runs along the shore past fishing villages and farm fields, with black stone walls, windmills and, in spring, fields of yellow rapeseed flowers. The wind is a constant on this side of the island, and it can be strong enough to push a bike sideways on exposed stretches, so a firm grip is wise. Rain arrives in sudden showers, and the sunsets over the sea are spectacular on clear evenings. Traffic is moderate and slower than on the main highways, with plenty of rental cars and tourists who are not sure of the route. Speed cameras are common.
For practicalities, the beach has a car park, cafes and small restaurants, and food ranges from seafood noodles to fried chicken and ice cream, and a refreshing local drink made from Jeju oranges. There are petrol stations on the main road nearby, and the town of Hallim, a short ride away, has stores and restaurants. Jeju City, about twenty-nine kilometres to the north-east, is the main base for services.
Come at sunset if you can. The light on the sand, the dark rocks and the silhouette of the island is one of the best on Jeju.