Húsavík is the town that decided to make whales its trade and has done very well from the decision. It sits on the shore of Skjálfandi bay in north Iceland, facing across the water to the snowy peaks of the Tröllaskagi range, and a row of brightly painted wooden boats waits at the harbour for visitors. The bay is one of the best places in Europe to see humpback whales, along with minke whales, porpoises and sometimes blue whales, and tours run from spring to autumn, sailing out on old oak fishing boats. Many boats provide warm overalls, and you will be glad of them.
The town has a long past. According to the old sagas, a Swedish Viking named Garðar Svavarsson sailed around the island in the ninth century and wintered here, building a house, and the name Húsavík, bay of houses, is said to come from that. A white wooden church of 1907, with a red roof and an unusual cross-shaped plan, stands on the hill above the harbour, and the Whale Museum covers the animals' biology and the history of whaling. The town was thrown into the global limelight when a film about the Eurovision song contest used it as a setting, and locals enjoy the attention.
The riding to Húsavík from the west and south is pleasant, with the road running through open farmland and lava fields, with the great waterfalls of Dettifoss and Goðafoss nearby. The Arctic Coast Way follows the north coast, with views of the ocean and islands such as Grímsey beyond the Arctic Circle. Roads are generally paved but can be rough on side routes, and weather swings from calm and bright to cold and windy in minutes, especially in spring and autumn. In summer the midnight sun gives long evenings, and that is the best time for the whale boats, when the water is calmer.
Fuel is available in town, and the nearest larger centre, Akureyri, is about ninety minutes away. There are plenty of cafés and restaurants that serve fish and chips, lamb, and the famous Icelandic hot dogs. The geothermal baths on the hillside above the town offer a pleasant way to warm up after a cold day on the water. Book your whale trip a day ahead if possible, and dress warmly.