The ridge that runs across Salaj County, in north-western Romania, is the Meses range, and in the Roman age it was the edge of an empire. When the emperor Trajan conquered Dacia in two hard wars, finished in 106, the new province needed protection on its northern side, and the Romans built a line of forts, watchtowers and earthworks along the crest of the Meses hills, controlling the pass through the mountains, now called the Meses Gate. The best known of the settlements is Porolissum, a garrison town and customs post at the gate. In 2024, the frontier of Roman Dacia was added to the World Heritage list, and the many small sites along it, among them Hurez, are part of the story.
Dealul Boului, Ox Hill, and Sumanda are names for the grassy hills that carry the line. The point of such a spot was always the view: from here, soldiers could see the next tower along the ridge, and the valley below, and warn of any movement on the northern side.
The countryside is the real reward. Salaj is a green, rolling land of small hills, orchards and meadows, dotted with villages where the houses have tall wooden gates and the churches have tall, slender spires. The roads are modest, many of them narrow, with patches and potholes, and horse-drawn carts are a normal sight. Tractors, dogs and herds of sheep are part of the traffic, and mud is common after rain. Summer is warm and golden, autumn brings misty mornings and plum harvest, and winter is cold, with snow on the ridge. Take your time, and look for the small stone and wooden churches that stand on the hilltops.
Crasna, the nearest town, is some seventeen kilometres away and has fuel and basic shops, and Zalau, the county capital, offers a wider choice. Between these places, services are scarce, so keep the tank topped up. Locals are friendly, and a stop at a village shop for a coffee, a bottle of water or a slice of fresh bread often turns into a conversation. If you like a drink, the plum brandy known as tuica is the local pride, and it is best enjoyed in small glasses.