Plum trees are the quiet monarchs of Salaj. From the foot of the Meses hills down to the Somes valley, farmers keep orchards of plums, and every autumn they harvest the fruit, boil it in copper stills and make tuica, the strong clear brandy that is offered to guests, used for celebrations and funerals, and blamed for the occasional sore head. A village near Dealul Boului, the Ox Hill, is the kind of place where you might see a still smoking in a yard in October, with neighbours gathered around and a tray of cheese and bread on the table.
For a rider, the more interesting aspect is the way of life that surrounds them. Hay is cut and dried in summer, and stacked around poles, houses have carved wooden gates, and old women in headscarves sell eggs or cheese at the roadside, while men with scythes work the steep fields where no machine can go.
Roads in this area are small and rough in places, with narrow strips of asphalt that vanish into gravel as they climb, and the speed is naturally low. Horse carts, cows being driven home at dusk, and dogs that lie in the road are all part of the experience, and you will find that waving to people and slowing down earns friendly nods. Keep an eye on the weather, for storms in summer can turn the road to a stream. The light in the late afternoon is the best for photography, with warm tones on the hay and the hills.
Crasna, the nearest town, is fifteen kilometres away and has a fuel station and a few shops, while Zalau, a larger town, offers the full range. If you plan to stay overnight, ask about guesthouses in the villages, where hosts often serve a dinner of soup, stuffed cabbage and polenta, with homemade cheese, pickles and a small glass of tuica. Take cash, since cards are not always accepted, and a few words of Romanian are appreciated. Spring and autumn are the best times for the ride, with fresh air and soft colours.