Lake Zurich has a narrow waist, and at the waist stands a long causeway called the Seedamm. It links Rapperswil on the north shore with the Pfaffikon side on the south, and the peninsula of Hurden sits at its northern end. The upper lake, the Obersee, lies to the east, a quieter, shallower basin with reed beds, while the main lake stretches away to the west. Behind it all, the Glarus Alps and the Churfirsten rise to the horizon on a clear day.
Hurden Seefeld is one of the prehistoric pile dwelling sites that UNESCO listed in 2011 across six countries around the Alps. About five thousand years ago, and again in the Bronze Age, people built villages on timber piles in the shallows here, and the wet lakebed preserved wood, pottery and tools in remarkable condition. The Seefeld site lies in the shallows, and there is little to see from the shore, but divers and archaeologists have recovered remains. The rich finds show that this was a busy crossing even in prehistoric times.
The crossing is still busy. A wooden footbridge, the Holzsteg, re-opened in 2001 on the line of a medieval pilgrim route, carries walkers and cyclists across the water from Rapperswil to Hurden. It is part of the Way of St James, which leads to Einsiedeln and on to Spain. Riding across the Seedamm is a short, easy affair, with a straight, flat road, but traffic can be heavy, especially on summer weekends, and the lake wind can be strong.
Rapperswil, called the town of roses, has a castle on a hill and a lovely old town of arcades and cobbled lanes, and it has all the fuel, food and cafes you need, with Pfaffikon a smaller alternative. Perch fillets are the local dish in lake restaurants, and a glass of Zurich wine goes well with them. The hills above, towards Einsiedeln and the Sihlsee, offer curving roads and good views. Go early on a summer morning, when the water is still and the light is clear.