Humahuaca sits at almost three thousand metres in the Quebrada de Humahuaca, a long, dry, colourful valley in the far north of Argentina that UNESCO has listed as a World Heritage landscape. The valley runs for about a hundred and fifty kilometres, with the river Grande flowing between walls of red, ochre, green and violet rock, and cardón cacti standing like candelabra on the hillsides. The road through it, the Ruta 9, follows an ancient trade route used by the Incas, and before them by many peoples who carried llama caravans between the Andes and the lowlands.
The town is small and adobe-built, with narrow cobbled streets and a lively market, where women sell woven goods, dried herbs, coca leaves and local food. In the main square, a clock tower on the old town hall has a figure of Saint Francis Solano that emerges at noon to bless the crowd, a daily show that draws tourists. A large stone monument to the heroes of independence stands on a hill above the town, reached by a steep staircase, and its view over the rooftops and the valley is a good reward for the climb.
The altitude is a real factor. Mountain sickness can strike newcomers, and locals recommend drinking tea made from coca leaves and taking it easy for the first day. Food here is simple and hearty, with llama stew, tamales, humitas made from corn and quinoa in many forms, and strong flavours from the aji pepper. Carnival, in February, is a wild celebration with flour, water and costumed dancers, mixing Catholic and indigenous traditions.
On a motorbike, the valley is a joy, with wide bends, long views and mostly good surfaces. Wind and dust are frequent, the sun is intense at this altitude, and temperatures swing from freezing at night to warm by day. Fuel is available in Humahuaca, and you should fill up there, since distances to the next stations can be long. Nearby, the painted hills of Purmamarca and Hornocal show the colours of the valley at their best.