The Hulftegg is a pass for people who know where to find it. At 954 metres it is modest, and it sits among rounded forested hills at the meeting point of three cantons, where Zürich, St. Gallen and Thurgau lean toward each other. There are no glaciers, no dramatic cliffs, and the guidebooks say little. But among Zürich riders it has a loyal following, because the road across it is a ribbon of well-judged bends through meadows and spruce, with hardly a straight run between them.
The climb from the Tösstal side starts gently and builds into a sequence of curves that follow the contours of the hill, opening here and there to views of the Hörnli and the Alpstein range to the east on clear days. The surface is generally good, and the radius of the bends rewards a smooth line. On weekends, other bikes and cyclists use the same road, so the pace is rarely wild. On weekdays and early evenings it is calm, with cows grazing right to the edge of the tarmac.
The cultural backdrop is quietly interesting. Down the eastern side lies the Thur valley and Fischingen, where a Benedictine monastery has stood since the Middle Ages and still shapes the village. Its church and buildings sit in a fold of land, and the abbey has long been a centre of pilgrimage and learning in a corner that seems otherwise remote. Farther along are small villages such as Mosnang, where the architecture shifts toward the sturdy timber farmhouses of eastern Switzerland.
Kirchberg, about eight kilometres away, is the nearest town with a decent range of services, and Wattwil and Bauma are alternatives on either side. There is usually a farm shop or inn along the way selling simple food and local cheese, but opening hours vary, so carry a snack and some water.
The weather matters more than the altitude suggests. Cloud lingers on these hills and the forest holds damp in the shade, so corners may be slick after rain, with moss and wet leaves on the verge. In winter the road may carry ice for longer than the valley floor. Go on a dry spring morning or an early autumn afternoon, and take your time on the descent.