Hualien lies on Taiwan's wild east coast, squeezed between the Pacific and a wall of mountains that rise to over three thousand metres within a few dozen kilometres of the sea. The city is relaxed, with a lively night market, sea-view cafes and the slightly weathered air of a place that is regularly shaken by earthquakes and typhoons. It is also the gateway to Taroko Gorge, where the Liwu river has cut a deep canyon through marble.
The road that follows the gorge, the Central Cross-Island Highway, is one of the great feats of Taiwanese engineering. It was built between 1956 and 1960 by army veterans and other workers, mostly with hand tools, across steep marble cliffs, and a number of men lost their lives during the work. Roadside shrines remember them, and the Eternal Spring Shrine, built over a waterfall, commemorates the dead. Today the road passes tunnels, narrow ledges and bridges, with the river shimmering turquoise far below.
Riding it is exciting and demanding. Bends are tight, and the road is narrow, with marble walls on one side and sheer drops on the other. Rockfall is a real hazard, tour buses take the corners wide, and the tunnels are dark. Sections of the highway are often closed after earthquakes or typhoons, as happened after the strong quake in April 2024, so always check current road status and any permit requirements before setting out. The weather turns misty and cold at higher altitudes, so bring layers. Spring and autumn offer the clearest skies; summer is hot and humid, with a typhoon season to watch.
Hualien city has fuel, workshops, hotels and endless food stalls, so prepare there. Along the highway, supplies are limited, and it is wise to carry water and snacks. Try the local mochi and the sweet peanut-powdered rice cakes, and a plate of fresh seafood at the night market. The indigenous Truku people, who have lived in the gorge area for centuries, are part of the area's culture, and visiting local craft shops is a good way to support them.