Hrubá Skála means rough rock, and the name suits the place. The village and its chateau sit on a spur of sandstone above the forest, with towers and cliffs rising around it, at the centre of the Bohemian Paradise. The chateau, perched on the edge of a rock, was built for the Valdštejn family and is now a hotel, with views over a sea of trees broken by pinnacles of pale stone. It looks like something from a children's book, which is not far from the truth, because this whole area is a favourite with Czech families and walkers.
The rocks are the story. Millions of years ago, this was a shallow sea, and the sand that settled in it hardened into sandstone. Wind, rain and frost have carved it into towers, gorges, arches and mazes, some of them more than fifty metres high, with names that Czech children learn early. Pine and birch grow in every crack, and moss covers the damp shaded sides. Climbers come here to scale the pinnacles, which have a long tradition of climbing without metal aids, a local ethic that is still respected. Nearby, the ruined Valdštejn castle stands on a rock nearby, regarded as the ancestral seat of the Wallenstein family.
The ride into Hrubá Skála is slow and beautiful. The roads are narrow and winding, rising and falling through forest and over small hills, with surfaces that vary from smooth to rough, and a number of tight hairpins. Speeds are low, and there is plenty to look at, but wildlife on the road and walkers at the edges mean you should stay alert. The twin basalt towers of Trosky, a ruined castle visible from far away, appear at intervals above the treeline, a landmark for the whole area.
Fuel is not available in the village. The nearest town with services is Turnov, about six kilometres away, which is known for its tradition of gemstone cutting and garnet jewellery, and has shops, fuel and restaurants. Hrubá Skála has a few places to eat, often busy at weekends, and a hearty meal of goulash with dumplings is an excellent reward after a day on the roads.
Visit in spring or autumn when the crowds are thinner and the forest colours are strongest. In winter, ice can make the shaded roads treacherous.