The Kumagai family house stands on the main street of Omori, the little town that grew up around the Iwami Ginzan silver mine, and it is a rare case of a merchant house that looks as it did two centuries ago. The Kumagai were among the leading merchants of the district, trading in goods, and dealing with money and the officials of the magistrate's office, and the house was rebuilt in the early nineteenth century after a fire swept the town. It is now an Important Cultural Property, and the care given to its restoration is obvious.
What strikes you inside is the practicality. A long earthen corridor runs the length of the house from the street to the back, with a big kitchen at one end, an open hearth, and a series of rooms for living, receiving guests and storing goods. The wooden pillars are dark with age, and there is a small garden at the back with a storehouse. A system of strongboxes and hiding places recalls the importance of security in a mining town that handled silver. The house shows how prosperity and discretion went together here.
Riding in is easy enough, if you accept the rules. The roads into the valley from the coast at Oda are narrow country lanes, shaded by cedar, and the old street of Omori is closed to most traffic, so you park at a visitor lot at the edge and walk up the gentle slope. It is about a ten-minute walk, and a small shop selling local goods and a cafe or two break the journey. The pavement is uneven, so wear sensible boots rather than your riding armour.
Fuel is down in Oda, about eleven kilometres away, and that is the place to fill before heading back toward the long ride to Miyajima. Rain is frequent, and the wet slate and red tile roofs shine nicely after a shower. Try to arrive early, since the house is open at limited hours, and many visitors come in the middle of the day.