Hood River is where the Columbia Gorge turns into a playground. The town sits on the Oregon bank of the Columbia River, about ninety kilometres east of Portland, at the point where the river squeezes between high basalt walls and the wind funnels through with almost reliable force. That wind made Hood River one of the windsurfing and kiteboarding capitals of the world, and from summer afternoons through early autumn the water is dotted with colourful sails. Across the river, the Washington side climbs into green hills, and on a clear day the white cone of Mount Hood rises to the south over the orchards.
The valley behind the town is also fruit country. Pears, apples and cherries grow in the volcanic soil, and in spring the blossom is a sight, while roadside stands in late summer sell fruit, cider and jam. A loop of farm roads known locally as the Fruit Loop links orchards, tasting rooms and a lavender farm, and it is a pleasant ride for a relaxed afternoon. The surfaces are good, the bends gentle, and the traffic light outside the weekend.
Downtown, the streets slope toward the river, with a mix of old brick buildings and more recent cafés, shops and breweries. It has a young, outdoorsy feel, with cyclists and kiteboarders in the cafés and a good selection of food. Fresh salmon, local cheese and fruit pies are easy to find, and the breweries, many of which have outdoor tables, serve a variety of beers with burgers and pizza. If you are riding, one pint is about the limit, and a coffee afterwards is wiser.
The Historic Columbia River Highway, an early scenic road built in the 1910s with stone bridges and viaducts, passes close by, and parts of it are open to traffic, offering a slower and prettier alternative to the interstate. Waterfalls, including the famous Multnomah Falls, lie to the west along it.
Fuel is easy, with stations along the main road, and the town has about seven and a half thousand people. Parking for motorcycles is available near the waterfront, but weekends and summer are busy. Across the bridge to White Salmon, a small toll applies, so keep some change handy.
Expect wind. A gust off the river can push a bike sideways on the bridge or on exposed stretches of the interstate, so grip the bars and lean into it. The best time is early morning or evening, when the wind drops and the light is gentle on the cliffs.