Wind is the reason Hood River became what it is. Where the Columbia River Gorge narrows between the cool, wet west and the dry eastern plateau, the air funnels through with such force that windsurfers and kiteboarders gather by the hundreds, and the town has grown into a capital of outdoor sports. On a summer afternoon the river is dotted with colourful sails, and the bridge across to Washington State hums in the wind. Behind the town, Mount Hood rises to 11,249 feet, snow-covered through most of the year, and in front of it lies a valley full of orchards.
The Hood River Valley is one of the major fruit-growing areas of the Pacific Northwest, famous for its pears and apples, and in spring the blossom covers the slopes in white. A loop of farm stands, cideries and wineries, usually called the Fruit Loop, takes you along small roads through the orchards with Mount Hood hanging over the scene. The valley has a gentle rhythm, with undulating road, small bridges, packed farm stands and signs for u-pick cherries in June. In autumn the harvest brings pumpkins and fresh cider.
The Historic Columbia River Highway ends here after climbing out of Troutdale, and some of its most beautiful stretches lie east of the town, including a section of restored road between Hood River and Mosier, with two old tunnels cut through the cliffs that now carry bikes and walkers instead of cars. For motorcycles, the better route east follows the road along the cliffs, with long views and strong winds. Take care of crosswinds, particularly on the bridge and in the open sections.
Hood River has about seven thousand people, so fuel, repairs and good food are easy. Local breweries are plentiful, and the downtown, set on a steep hill above the river, has coffee shops and bakeries. Late April has blossom, summer has the sails and the heat, and September is warm and quieter. Highway 35 runs south toward Mount Hood, with pine forest, snow-covered peaks and, in winter, ice, so check conditions.