Hongcheon sits in the heart of Gangwon Province, a county town of around seventy thousand people in a valley of the Hongcheon River, ringed by the first big mountains east of Seoul. About two hours from the capital by road, it serves as a gate to the hills, and for riders heading east to the coast it is the place to be sure your tank is full before the mountain roads begin. The town has plenty of fuel stations, convenience stores open all night, and restaurants that specialise in the local speciality, Hongcheon beef, which is raised in the cool uplands and is highly regarded for its marbling.
The surrounding landscape is steep and green, with forested ridges, terraced fields in the valleys, and clear streams running beside the road. Korea's mountains are often much steeper than their height suggests, and the road network follows the valleys closely, with a lot of curves and the occasional tunnel. Route 44 runs east from here toward Inje and the east coast, past the foothills of the Sorak range, a long and well-surfaced road that twists through the Gangwon ranges. Other routes lead off through Palbong Mountain and along the river, offering rewarding riding for those who like bends. The expressway from Seoul to Yangyang, with its long tunnels, has also cut journey times, and the old roads are now pleasantly quiet.
Culturally, the area is a rural heartland. Gangwon has long been known as a place of potato farmers, mountain herbs and, on the coast, fish. Chuncheon, twenty-four kilometres west, is famous for dakgalbi, spicy stir-fried chicken cooked at the table, and for its lakes. Hongcheon itself has its own pride in its produce, and in autumn, the roadsides have stalls selling chestnuts, apples and sweet potatoes.
The weather varies sharply with the seasons. Summers are hot and humid, with a rainy monsoon in July that can bring landslides and slick roads. Autumn is the best time, when the leaves turn in October and the air is crisp and clear. Winters are cold and snowy, and mountain roads may be icy and closed, so most riders stay home from December to March.
Traffic on Korean roads can be fast and sometimes aggressive, with speed cameras widespread, so watch the signs and keep to the limits. Convenience stores make an easy stop for hot drinks, noodles and snacks.