Homer Tunnel is one of the great curiosities of New Zealand roads: a rough, unlined bore through a wall of granite, about 1.2 kilometres long, that connects the Hollyford and Cleddau valleys and opens the way to Milford Sound. Work began in 1935, when men with picks and shovels were hired to dig it as a Depression relief project, and it took until 1954 to finish, since avalanches, floods and the Second World War delayed progress. The tunnel's mouth sits at about 945 metres, at the foot of a vast cirque of rock walls and waterfalls, and the Homer Saddle above it was named after the man who found it in 1889.
Riding through is a strange and thrilling business. The tunnel is dark and damp, with bare rock walls and water dripping from the ceiling, and its floor slopes downhill at about one in ten toward the Milford side. Traffic is controlled by lights, so you may wait some minutes at the entrance, which is a good chance to look at the cliffs and listen to the sound of water. Take your sunglasses off before entering, and be careful of the wet surface, especially in winter, when ice builds up on the road.
After the tunnel, the road descends to Milford Sound in a series of tight hairpins, with spectacular views down the Cleddau valley. The descent is steep and winding, with tight bends, and the surface is usually good but wet. Avalanches are a real risk in winter and spring, and the road can be closed at short notice, so check the road status before setting out. Chains may be required between May and November.
The kea parrots gather at the tunnel entrance and are excellent at stealing food and tearing rubber, so do not leave your gloves on the seat. Take a flask and some food, as Milford itself has only a small cafe. The scenery is magnificent in any weather, and when the rain falls, hundreds of waterfalls spring from the cliffs.