The Four Guardians, the dragon of the east, the tiger of the west, the red bird of the south and the black tortoise entwined with a snake in the north, rule the walls of the Homam-ri tomb. Painted more than fifteen hundred years ago in the Koguryo kingdom, which dominated Korea and parts of Manchuria in those centuries, they are drawn in sweeping lines and bright mineral colours, and they twist across the stone as if in motion. The tomb is in the area around Pyongyang, in North Korea, and the whole group of Koguryo tombs was listed by UNESCO in 2004.
The Four Guardians had a job. In the cosmology the Koguryo shared with China, they protected the four directions of the universe and, in a tomb, the spirit of the dead person lying at the centre, so the paintings are less decoration than a map of the cosmos built around a grave. Ceilings in such tombs are often painted with stars and with the sun and moon, while the corridors are filled with processions and feasting scenes. This tomb, like Yaksu-ri, is a reminder of how sophisticated the kingdom's art was.
It would be misleading to describe a ride here, because it is not possible to explore North Korea on your own. Foreign visitors travel in organised groups with official guides, and independent motorcycling is not allowed. The roads around Pyongyang are wide, often with very little traffic, and the capital is a city of broad boulevards and monumental buildings, though what you see is carefully managed.
If you want to see Koguryo art without these limits, look at the museum collections and publications, or at the tombs in the Chinese city of Ji'an, whose painted tomb chambers have been open to visitors for longer. In any case, check what your own government advises before you plan anything near this border.