Holm is where the road meets the water. Terråk and Vik, small settlements in the municipality of Bindal, lie to the south and east.
The riding here is slow and scenic. The road follows the coast, with ferries linking its sections, and the bends are tight in places, with narrow roads between rock and water. The surface is good, but the ferries impose a rhythm, and timetables matter: arrive early in summer, since queues build and cars may be left behind. The summer light is long, and the sea is often calm. Rain and wind can arrive suddenly, and fog sometimes hides the islands.
Helgeland has a powerful mythology. The mountain of Torghatten, further north, has a hole through it, about 160 metres long, which legend says was made by an arrow shot by a troll chasing a maiden, and the Seven Sisters, a row of jagged peaks, stand on the coast near Sandnessjøen. Leka island, offshore, has a rare geological formation of rocks from the earth's mantle. Fishing villages with red boathouses, called rorbuer or naust, line the shores, and sea eagles are common.
Fuel is not easy to find, so fill up before arriving, with Kolvereid to the south or Brønnøysund beyond the ferry as the nearest places with a good choice. The ferry kiosks sell coffee, waffles and hot dogs, and local cafes serve fish soup. Carry a card, as the ferries take payment by card or online.
Stand on the deck on the crossing. The coast opens up in a way a road cannot show.