Where the Olt river bends around the Perșani mountains, between the Saxon villages of southern Transylvania and the Székely country to the east, the land rises into wooded hills, and near the village of Hoghiz, on a terrace above the river, lies an archaeological site known simply as La Cetate, the fortress. The Romans guarded this stretch of the Olt with forts, part of the defensive system of their province of Dacia, and the name hints at an old fortified place that once watched over the valley.
The area is geologically remarkable. A few kilometres north, at Racoș, an extinct volcano has left columns of basalt, dark hexagonal pillars exposed in an old quarry, and a small crater lake nearby. The Olt cuts a narrow gorge through the hills here, and the landscape is a mix of forests, meadows and villages. To the west lies Rupea, with a medieval Saxon fortress on a basalt hill, restored and open to visitors, from which there are wide views over the surrounding countryside.
The main road from Brașov to Sighișoara passes nearby, a busy route with heavy trucks and frequent overtaking, so choose minor roads where you can. The country lanes along the Olt and through the villages are quieter, though surfaces vary and potholes are common. Horse carts, sheep and dogs share the roads. The hills around offer some winding stretches, and the views across the valley to the Perșani mountains are fine. Summer is warm, autumn beautiful, and winters cold with snow.
Hoghiz is a small village with basic services, and Rupea, eight kilometres away, is a town with fuel and shops. The Saxon villages around, such as Viscri and Saschiz, have fortified churches and offer guesthouses and traditional food. Try ciorbă, a sour soup, and papanași, fried doughnuts with sour cream and jam. In the evening, the light on the hills and the river is soft, and the sound of sheep bells drifts across the valley from the pastures.