Hochtor is the summit of the road. At 2,504 metres, a short tunnel of three hundred metres or so cuts under the ridge, and it marks the border between the provinces of Salzburg and Carinthia and the highest point on the Grossglockner High Alpine Road. On the northern side lies the long ascent from the Fuscher valley; on the southern, a descent past the Gamsgrube and toward the Pasterze glacier, with Austria's highest peak, the Grossglockner at 3,798 metres, rising to the west.
Long before the road, there was a route. The Romans used the Hochtor as a crossing, and archaeologists have found a bronze statuette of Hercules and other offerings near the pass, evidence that travellers have thanked the gods for safe passage here for two thousand years. Medieval traders, pilgrims, and smugglers followed the same line, carrying salt and wine, and the little chapel at Heiligenblut, below on the south side, was built by people who had to cross the mountains on foot. Its tall Gothic spire, framed by the Glockner, is one of the most photographed views in Austria.
The south ramp is a delight. After the tunnel, the road drops in a long series of curves with fast, open views, and the surface is excellent. The hairpins are more spread out than on the north side, and the road swings around cirques and past waterfalls, with the glacier visible below. Take care on the descent, because brakes work hard, and in summer afternoons, thunderstorms can strike with little warning. Snow can lie on the ground in July, and the road may close for weather at any time.
Fuel is not available on the high road itself, and Heiligenblut, about five kilometres from the pass, is the first place on the south side with services. Zell am See, on the north, is the bigger town, and Rauris is a smaller valley town to the east. A toll is charged for the road, with a lower rate if you go early in the day or late. The restaurants and refuges at the top and near the glacier serve hot food, and a coffee with a view of the ice is a fine way to recover your composure.