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Hjelmelandsvågen

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Hjelmelandsvågen is a small village on the shore of the Jøsenfjord, in the heart of Ryfylke, the fjord and mountain district northeast of Stavanger. It is the main settlement of Hjelmeland municipality, with a harbour, a ferry quay, a church, a few shops and a cluster of houses on the slope above the water, and it is a quiet place where the main event of the day is often the arrival of the ferry across the fjord to Nesvik.

Ryfylke is a region of deep fjords, steep mountains, small farms on narrow ledges and old villages along the shore, and it has a long history of farming, fishing and fruit growing. Hjelmeland is known for its fruit, especially apples and plums, which grow on the sheltered slopes along the fjords, and in late summer the orchards are heavy with fruit. The area also has a rich tradition of boatbuilding and trade, with goods carried by boat to Stavanger and beyond.

The village is on the Ryfylke National Tourist Route, which follows the fjords and valleys from Oanes near Lysefjorden to Sauda, using ferries and roads. The modern route also passes through the Ryfast tunnels, opened in 2019, which link Stavanger to Ryfylke under the sea and include the longest and deepest undersea road tunnel in the world. From here, the route runs north along the fjords toward Sand and Sauda, and south toward Jørpeland and the famous cliff of Preikestolen, which rises over the Lysefjord.

The riding on this stretch is a mix of shoreline road and short climbs, with tight bends, narrow sections and fine views over the fjords and mountains. Traffic stays thin, except for summer weekends. The surface is generally good. The weather can change fast, and the fjords can be wet and misty, but on a clear day the light on the water is beautiful, and the evenings in summer are long and soft.

Hjelmelandsvågen has a shop and the basics of village life, and the ferry crossing is short and frequent; for a wider choice of everything, including fuel stations, Jørpeland is the safer bet. Jørpeland lies about twenty-five kilometres south. Take a break on the quay, look across the fjord, and watch the ferry coming in.

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