Mtskheta is the old heart of Georgia, and the whole town is listed by UNESCO. For hundreds of years before Tbilisi became important, it was the capital of the kingdom of Iberia, and here at the meeting of the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers, in the early fourth century, King Mirian converted to Christianity. Archaeologists have found remains of a royal citadel, tombs and Roman-era graves in the surrounding hills, showing how much older the settlement is than the churches. The town is still the seat of the Georgian Orthodox Patriarch, and a place of pilgrimage.
What makes it special is how compact it is. The small streets of the centre, lined with stone-walled courtyards and wooden balconies, lead to the cathedral and a handful of tiny shops selling wine, churchkhela, the walnut-and-grape candy that looks like a candle, and religious icons. Samtavro monastery, with its tombs of kings, sits a short way up the street, and women in headscarves tend the candles. Locals sell tarragon lemonade, bread baked in clay ovens, and fresh grilled meats beside the road. It is touristy but still alive, and on Sundays families come in from Tbilisi to pray and eat.
For riders, Mtskheta marks the start of the Georgian Military Road, the old route over the Caucasus that the Russian army built in the nineteenth century to reach Georgia. It runs north along the Aragvi river past the Zhinvali reservoir and the fortress of Ananuri, then climbs to the Jvari Pass and on to Kazbegi. The surface is reasonable, but heavy lorries, stray cows and sudden fog make it a road that requires attention. In the other direction, the roads toward Kakheti, Georgia's wine country, lead through vineyards and hills.
The town is small, with just over seven thousand residents, but it has several filling stations on the highway and in the centre, and plenty of cafés and restaurants. Traffic on the main road can be heavy, especially on weekends, and parking near the cathedral is limited. There are wide paved areas at the edge of town where bikes are easy to leave. Walk the streets slowly and you will find a much older Georgia than the one you see from the highway.