Sukhothai was the first capital of a Thai kingdom, and the name means Dawn of Happiness. In the thirteenth century, two Thai chieftains drove out the Khmer governors and founded a state here, and under King Ramkhamhaeng, who ruled in the late thirteenth century, it grew into a power across much of the region. Tradition credits him with creating the Thai alphabet and with an inscription describing a golden age, where there was fish in the water and rice in the fields. The kingdom was short-lived, absorbed by Ayutthaya in the fifteenth century, but Sukhothai is remembered as the cradle of Thai art, religion and identity.
The historical park is a spacious place of lotus ponds, grassy lawns and brick and laterite ruins, with the large temple of Wat Mahathat at its heart. The Buddha figures of Sukhothai are famous for their elegance, with soft, flowing lines and a smile of calm. In the park, hire a bicycle and ride between the monuments at your own pace. The slender, lotus-bud towers and the walking Buddha in relief are signatures of the style. The place is lovely at sunrise and sunset, when the stone glows and the heat drops. Wat Si Chum, a short ride away, shelters a huge seated Buddha in a high-walled chamber, and its face seems to look right at you.
Sukhothai is also linked to the festival of Loy Krathong, held on the full moon in November, when people float small lotus-shaped boats of banana leaf with candles on rivers and ponds. The festival is said to have started here, and the town puts on a big celebration with fireworks and performances.
The wider listing includes the town of Kamphaeng Phet to the south, and the ride between them is a pleasant one on Highway 101 across flat, green rice country, with palms and small villages. The road is smooth, with light traffic, and the heat is the main issue, so start early. The new town of Sukhothai, a dozen kilometres east of the park, has fuel stations, hotels and restaurants, and the old town has a handful of guesthouses and cafes. Try the local noodles, served in a sweet-sour broth with pork and morning glory.
The cool season, from November to February, is the best time for riding and for the ruins.