Guanajuato is a town that has been dug into, built over and tunnelled through, and it has a character all of its own. It sits in a narrow canyon in the highlands of central Mexico, and the silver mines that made it rich lie in the hills around it. In the eighteenth century the Valenciana mine was among the richest in the world, and the profits built grand churches, theatres and mansions, all painted in bright colours and packed into steep, winding streets. UNESCO listed the town and its mines in 1988.
The most distinctive thing about Guanajuato for a motorcyclist is that part of the road network is underground. When the river was diverted to prevent flooding, its old bed became a system of tunnels used by traffic, with stone arches, narrow lanes and a dim, echoing atmosphere that is entirely unlike anywhere else. The tunnels are one-way in places, signs are confusing, and the walls are close, so ride slowly with your headlight on and follow the traffic. Above ground, steep, narrow streets, steps and tiny plazas, such as the Alley of the Kiss, make the town a good place to park and walk.
Outside the centre, the panoramic road above the town gives a view over the rooftops, and the Pípila monument is a favourite viewpoint. The road to the Valenciana church, with its richly carved baroque facade, climbs through the hills, and the roads to Dolores Hidalgo, the cradle of the independence movement, are fast and open. The city is at about 2,000 metres, so it is mild most of the year, with rain in summer. In October the Cervantino arts festival fills the town, and finding a place to stay becomes difficult.
Fuel stations are mostly on the edges of town, and parking in the centre is tight, so it is worth leaving the bike at a secure car park and walking. The town has a large student population, so cafes and cheap restaurants are everywhere. The Mummies Museum is a macabre but popular visit, and the university steps are a good place to sit and watch the town go by.