The ferry from Buenos Aires crosses the muddy, brown Rio de la Plata in about an hour, and when you arrive in Colonia del Sacramento, the city seems to have been kept in a jar. The Portuguese founded it in 1680 as a smuggling base to rival Spanish Buenos Aires on the opposite shore, and for the next century it was fought over by Portugal and Spain, passing from hand to hand. The old quarter on the peninsula is the result, with cobbled streets, low whitewashed houses with tiled roofs, and a mix of Portuguese and Spanish colonial styles. It was listed by UNESCO in 1995.
The best way to see it is on foot, and the sights are close together. The Calle de los Suspiros, the street of sighs, is a narrow lane of old houses that is the most photographed corner, and the lighthouse, built in the nineteenth century on the ruins of a convent, gives a view over the rooftops and the river. At sunset, the sky goes pink over the wide water, and people gather along the waterfront for a drink. The town's vintage cars, left parked as decoration among the flower beds, add to the nostalgia, and there is a quiet, unhurried feel even in high season.
The riding in Uruguay is easy and flat. Route 1 runs along the coast toward Montevideo, about 180 kilometres away, through farmland, cattle country and small towns, and is a good road with moderate traffic. Wind off the river can be strong, and in the summer months the roads are busy at weekends. The riding is relaxed rather than thrilling, and it suits an unhurried day, with a stop for a chivito, the local steak sandwich piled with egg, ham and cheese, and a few sips of mate if someone offers you some.
Colonia del Sacramento is a town of about twenty thousand people, with several fuel stations and plenty of restaurants. The best seasons are spring and autumn, with mild weather, and in summer it can be hot and humid. If you are coming from Buenos Aires, check the ferry rules for motorcycles and book ahead, and remember that your documents will be checked on arrival.