Santiago de Querétaro's skyline is defined by its aqueduct, seventy-four tall stone arches striding across a valley into the city, built in the early eighteenth century at the expense of the Marqués de la Villa del Villar del Águila to bring fresh water from the hills. Legend says he did it for love of a nun; the more prosaic version says he wanted to improve public health. Either way, it is one of the great engineering works of colonial Mexico, and the view of the arches at dusk, lit up against the sky, is unforgettable.
The historic centre is a UNESCO site, and it is a joy to explore on foot: plazas shaded by Indian laurel trees, churches and convents of pink and ochre stone, elegant mansions with courtyards and balconies. The layout is unusual, combining the regular grid of the Spanish town with the winding streets of the indigenous Otomí quarter. Querétaro played a central role in Mexican history: the conspiracy that led to independence in 1810 was hatched here, Emperor Maximilian was executed on the Cerro de las Campanas in 1867, and the current Mexican constitution was drafted in the city's theatre in 1917.
Querétaro is one of the fastest-growing cities in Mexico, a centre of industry, especially aerospace and automotive, and traffic on its ring roads and highways can be intense. Riding into the centre is manageable, but parking is limited, so find a secure garage and explore on foot. The surroundings offer great riding: the Sierra Gorda to the northeast, a biosphere reserve with spectacular mountain roads and Franciscan missions, the wine and cheese region around Tequisquiapan and Bernal, with its giant monolith, and the colonial towns of San Miguel de Allende and Guanajuato to the northwest.
The city has every service you need, from fuel to motorcycle shops. The food scene is excellent, with traditional dishes like enchiladas queretanas, gorditas and nopal salads, as well as modern restaurants and wine bars serving local wines. The climate is temperate and dry most of the year, with a rainy season in summer; mornings can be cool and afternoons warm. Plan for at least a full day to enjoy the city before heading out on the road.