Nara was Japan's capital for only seventy-four years, from 710 to 784, but it left a mark out of all proportion to the time. The court modelled the new city on Chang'an, the Chinese capital, with a grid of streets and a palace at the north, and it was here that Buddhism took root as the state religion, that the first histories and poetry anthologies were compiled, and that the great temples were built. Eight monuments are included in the World Heritage listing: Todai-ji, Kofuku-ji, Kasuga Taisha, Gango-ji, Yakushi-ji, Toshodai-ji, the site of Heijo Palace and the Kasugayama Primeval Forest.
The best known is Todai-ji, where the Great Buddha, a bronze figure about fifteen metres tall, sits inside what is still one of the largest wooden buildings in the world. The statue was dedicated in 752, and the original hall has been rebuilt after fires, each time a little smaller than before. The temple grounds are also where Nara's famous deer wander, around a thousand of them, treated as divine messengers. They bow for crackers and have been known to nibble maps, hats and sleeves, so keep your belongings close.
For a rider, Nara is a gentle place to wander, but traffic is heavy around the park at weekends and in cherry and maple seasons. The centre is a mix of narrow streets and one-way lanes, parking is limited and paid, and deer cross the roads at will, sometimes at night, so slow down. Outside the city, the hills to the east lead to Yamato-Aoga and the Murou mountains, where the roads are quieter and the bends tighter.
Nara has all the services of a mid-sized city, with fuel stations, small restaurants and shops selling kuzu sweets and green tea. Early morning, before the tour buses arrive, is when the park is at its best, with mist hanging between the cedars. November brings the red leaves, and the Shuni-e fire festival at Todai-ji marks the beginning of spring in March.