Trogir is an island, though you barely notice it. The old town sits on a tiny islet between the mainland and the larger island of Čiovo, linked to both by short bridges, and inside its walls is one of the best preserved medieval towns on the Adriatic, a UNESCO site of narrow lanes, stone palaces and churches, crammed into an area you can walk across in five minutes.
Greeks from the island of Vis founded a settlement here in antiquity, and later the Romans, Byzantines, Croatian kings, Venetians and Austrians all left their mark. The cathedral of St Lawrence is the jewel, and its west portal, carved by the master Radovan in 1240, is one of the most important Romanesque works in Croatia, with Adam and Eve standing on lions and scenes of the months of the year. Climb the cathedral tower for a view over the red roofs. At the western tip of the islet stands the Kamerlengo fortress, built by Venice in the fifteenth century.
Riding to Trogir is mostly about the Adriatic coast road, the D8, which runs along the shore with the sea on one side and bare limestone mountains on the other. It is a wonderful road in spring and autumn, with constant views of islands and bays, but in summer it gets very busy with traffic and coaches, and the stretch near Split airport, just east of Trogir, can be congested. The road into the hinterland, towards the Dalmatian interior, is quieter and climbs quickly into a stony, dry landscape. Watch for strong winds: the bura, a cold north-easterly, can gust violently on this coast.
Trogir town has fuel and all services, and the waterfront promenade, the Riva, is lined with cafés and restaurants looking across to Čiovo. Seafood is the obvious choice: grilled fish, black risotto with cuttlefish ink, and Dalmatian ham. Parking near the old town can be difficult in summer, but motorcycles have an easier time. Early in the morning, before the tourists arrive, the lanes are cool and quiet, and the stone glows in the low sun. In the evening, when the day trippers leave, the town comes back to life with locals.