Vienna's historic centre has been rebuilt many times, but it never lost its sense of itself as the capital of an empire. The medieval city grew around the cathedral of St Stephen, whose patterned tile roof and soaring south tower have dominated the skyline since the fourteenth century, and later the Habsburgs added the Hofburg palace, the baroque palaces of the nobility and the grand squares. In the 1850s, the old city walls were pulled down and replaced by the Ringstrasse, a wide boulevard lined with the Opera, the Parliament, the university, the city hall and the museums, all in historic styles, which is itself a part of the listed ensemble.
What makes Vienna special is not only the grandeur but the way it is lived in. The coffee houses, with marble tables, newspapers on wooden holders and waiters in black, are a cultural institution of their own. The Sachertorte, the apple strudel and the Wiener Schnitzel are all served in the old places, and the evening wine taverns of the suburbs, the Heurigen, serve new wine and cold plates in gardens. Music is everywhere, and the city's history as home to Mozart, Beethoven, Schubert and Mahler is part of the air.
The ride called Zwentendorf refers to a Roman fort on the Danube, and a fine day trip leads west along the river from the city. In the city itself, riding is slow, with tram lines, cobbles and a lot of traffic. The Ring is wide enough to be easy, but the inner streets are narrow, and parking in the first district is expensive, so park outside and use the tram. For a taste of the countryside, the Kahlenberg and the Wienerwald hills on the northern edge of the city offer winding roads, forest and views over the city and the Danube.
Fuel is available in all districts and on the main roads out. Austria requires a vignette for the motorways, including for motorbikes, so be sure to buy one before using them. Spring and autumn are the best seasons, with mild weather and fewer visitors than in summer. In winter, the Christmas markets fill the squares, and the cold can be sharp.