Prague is one of the few big European capitals that came through the twentieth century with its medieval and baroque centre mostly intact, and the result is a city of spires, bridges and cobbled lanes on either side of the Vltava. The castle, on its hill on the left bank, is the largest ancient castle complex in the world by area, with St Vitus Cathedral at its heart, and across the river the Old Town spreads in a maze of squares and passages. Charles Bridge, begun by Charles IV in 1357, links the two banks, lined with baroque statues of saints and busy at every hour. In the Old Town Square, the astronomical clock, from the fifteenth century, strikes the hour with a parade of apostles, to the delight of the crowd.
Prague has a layered, sometimes strange history. Charles IV made it the capital of the Holy Roman Empire, Jan Hus was burned at Constance in 1415 and became a national hero, the Defenestrations of 1419 and 1618 set off wars, and the Habsburgs, the Nazis and the Communists each left their mark. The Velvet Revolution of 1989 began here, in peaceful demonstrations, and Václav Havel, the playwright, went from prison to the castle as president. It is also the city of Kafka, Dvořák and Mucha, and of pubs where a half litre of excellent lager costs less than a bottle of water in other capitals.
For a motorcyclist, Prague is a place to arrive at and leave alone. The old centre is a labyrinth of one-way lanes, tram lines, cobbles, and restricted zones, all slick when wet, with parking at a premium, so leave the bike in a hotel garage or a guarded car park and use trams and metro, or your feet. Outside, the roads of Bohemia are excellent, with the Vltava valley south of the city, the castles of Křivoklát and Karlštejn, and the Bohemian Paradise within easy reach. Spring and early autumn have the best weather. Summer is crowded, and winter has a quiet charm, with frost on the rooftops.
The city has every service, with fuel on the ring roads, workshops, hotels and endless restaurants. Try svíčková, beef with cream sauce and dumplings, or a fried cheese sandwich, and the local beer, Pilsner or Budvar. The Czech Republic requires a motorway vignette, bought online or at a station, and speed limits are enforced with cameras. Be careful with taxis and currency exchange offices around the centre, and use official ones, with prices shown clearly.