Porto is a city built on a granite slope above the Douro, and for a rider that means two things immediately: the views are wonderful, and the streets are steep, narrow and paved with stone that turns slippery as soap in the rain. Tram rails cross the old centre, cobbles are everywhere, and traffic is dense, so the best plan is to park the bike once and walk. The historic centre, from the riverside quarter of Ribeira up to the cathedral and the Clérigos Tower, was listed by UNESCO in 1996.
Ribeira is the heart of the old port: tall, narrow houses in faded colours piled up above the quay, washing hanging from balconies, and cafés along the river where the old rabelo boats, which once carried barrels of wine down from the vineyards, are moored. Above it, the double-decker iron arch of the Dom Luís I bridge spans the gorge, designed by Théophile Seyrig, a former partner of Gustave Eiffel, and opened in the 1880s. Walk across the upper deck, now used by the metro, for the classic view of the city.
On the far bank, in Vila Nova de Gaia, are the lodges where port wine is aged and blended. Port takes its name from the city, but the grapes are grown upriver in the Douro valley, the oldest demarcated wine region in the world, and the wine was traditionally brought down to Gaia to mature. Many lodges offer tours and tastings. Back on the Porto side, the São Bento railway station is worth a stop for its entrance hall lined with blue and white azulejo tiles depicting scenes from Portuguese history.
The great ride from here is up the Douro valley itself. The N222 between Peso da Régua and Pinhão is often called one of the best roads in the world: a ribbon of tarmac along the river, under steep terraced vineyards, with endless curves and views. It is about two hours from Porto, and makes a perfect day out, ideally on a weekday in spring or during the harvest in September and early October.
Fuel and everything else are easy in Porto. The city's signature dish is the francesinha, a sandwich of ham, sausage and steak covered in melted cheese and a spicy beer and tomato sauce, which is not light but is unforgettable. Then sit on the river wall in the evening with a glass of white port and tonic and watch the light fade on the bridge.