For most of the fourteenth century, the popes lived in Avignon rather than Rome. In 1309, Pope Clement V, a Frenchman, settled here to escape the turmoil of Italian politics, and his successors built a vast palace, the Palais des Papes, the largest Gothic palace in Europe, with massive walls, towers and halls, more fortress than residence. Seven popes reigned here until 1377, when the papacy returned to Rome, and then rival popes continued to rule from Avignon during the Great Schism. The palace, the cathedral, the ramparts and the famous bridge, the Pont Saint-Bénézet, were listed by UNESCO in 1995.
The bridge is famous from the song, Sur le pont d'Avignon, though it was probably danced under rather than on. It once had twenty two arches, spanning the Rhône, but floods repeatedly damaged it, and only four arches remain today, ending abruptly in the middle of the river. The old town, enclosed by a ring of medieval walls, is lively, with squares, cafes, theatres and markets. In July, the Festival d'Avignon, one of the most important theatre festivals in the world, fills the city with performances, and the streets with actors, musicians and crowds.
The riding around Avignon is excellent. To the east, Mont Ventoux, the giant of Provence, rises to 1,909 metres, and the roads to its bald, windswept summit, from Bédoin, Malaucène or Sault, are legendary among cyclists and riders, with steep gradients, tight bends and views over half of southern France. To the south, the Alpilles, a small limestone range, offers twisting roads, olive groves and the villages of Les Baux and Saint-Rémy. To the west, across the Rhône, the Gard has the Pont du Gard, the great Roman aqueduct, and Nîmes, with its Roman amphitheatre and the Maison Carrée.
Avignon, a city of about ninety thousand people, has fuel, shops and plenty of restaurants. Traffic can be heavy, and parking difficult, especially during the festival. The mistral, a cold, strong wind from the north, can blow for days, making riding challenging, especially on exposed roads. The local wines, from Châteauneuf-du-Pape, just to the north, and the Côtes du Rhône, are excellent. Summers are hot and dry, and spring and autumn are the best times to ride.