The heart of medieval Cairo is a dense maze of lanes, domes and minarets that has barely changed in some corners since the Mamluk age, and it is one of the richest collections of Islamic architecture on earth. UNESCO listed Historic Cairo in 1979, recognising hundreds of monuments, mosques, madrasas, baths and gates, built over a thousand years. The city was founded as a royal enclosure by the Fatimid dynasty in 969, and its name, al-Qahira, means the victorious. The Fatimids also founded Al-Azhar, a mosque and teaching institution that has been running since the 970s and is regarded as one of the oldest universities in the world.
The main artery is the street called al-Muizz, a long road lined with monuments from different periods, including mosques, sabils, or public fountains, and old merchants' houses. It leads past two imposing gates, the Bab al-Futuh and the Bab Zuweila, which you can climb for a view over the district. The Khan el-Khalili, a market dating back to the fourteenth century, is nearby, with alleys of spice, lamps, gold and souvenirs. The Citadel of Saladin, founded in the late twelfth century, stands on a rocky spur above the city, with the Ottoman-style mosque of Muhammad Ali dominating the skyline.
For a motorcyclist, the old city is best approached on foot. The lanes are narrow and crowded, there are street vendors, donkey carts and pedestrians everywhere, and motor traffic is restricted in some parts. Ride in early, park at the edge, and walk. The main roads around the district are notoriously congested, with an unceasing flow of horns and minibuses, and a calm temper is your best accessory. Dress modestly, carry small change for tips and tickets, and keep an eye on your belongings in the crowds.
Cairo has fuel stations in every district, and fuel is relatively cheap. The old city has many small cafes where you can sit and watch the bustle over mint tea, and a bowl of koshari, a mix of rice, lentils, pasta and fried onions, is the classic cheap lunch. The air smells of spices, charcoal smoke and dust, and the sound of the call to prayer rises from dozens of minarets at once. The best time to visit is early morning or late afternoon, when the heat eases and the light picks out the carved stone.