Just west of Linz, the Danube narrows and the steep, wooded slopes of the Kürnberger Wald rise from its southern bank. In the Roman period this river was the frontier of the empire, and the soldiers who guarded it built a chain of forts and watchtowers along the bank to watch for raiders crossing from the north. The Hirschleitengraben watchtower is one of these, a small Roman tower in a side ravine of the forest, part of the Danube Limes, which UNESCO listed in 2021 as one of the great frontiers of the Roman Empire. Its remains are modest, but the position, looking over the river toward Puchenau and the hills of the Mühlviertel, makes the purpose clear.
The Kürnberger Wald is a popular recreational area for the people of Linz, with paths through beech and oak forest, and there are legends connecting it with the Nibelungenlied, the epic of the Burgundian heroes, whose journey down the Danube passed through this region. In spring the forest floor is covered with wild garlic, and the smell fills the air.
The riding along the Danube here is gentle and scenic, with roads on both banks following the river through villages and fields. Upstream, the Danube valley becomes more dramatic, with the famous Schlögener Schlinge, a tight double meander through steep forested hills, and the roads on the north bank climb up into the Mühlviertel, a rolling upland of granite, forests and farms with plenty of curves. Traffic around Linz can be heavy, especially at rush hour, and Austrian motorways require a vignette, motorcycles included. The Danube cycle path is very popular in summer, so expect many cyclists on the riverside roads.
Linz, about five kilometres away, is a lively city with all services, from fuel to motorcycle shops. Its cultural scene is surprisingly modern, with the Ars Electronica Center and the Lentos art museum on the riverbanks, as well as a charming old town around the main square. Local specialities include the Linzer Torte, one of the oldest known cake recipes, made with nuts and redcurrant jam, and hearty Austrian dishes like schnitzel and dumplings. Wilhering Abbey, a short ride upstream, has one of the most beautiful rococo churches in Austria.