Hinokuma lies on the western edge of the Asuka district, where the land begins to rise toward the Katsuragi and Kongō mountains. The name appears in early records connected with the imperial family and the old clans, and a temple, Hinokuma-dera, once stood here, close to the tombs of rulers of the sixth and seventh centuries.
The landscape is a pleasure. From the edge of the plain, the road climbs gently through orchards and small farms, with views back across the basin and the sweep of the Yamato mountains. Kashihara, about six kilometres away, is the nearest big town, and Gose, to the south-west, is a smaller one of about thirty thousand with a walkable centre. Both provide fuel, supermarkets and restaurants.
The ride heading west into the hills is the best part. The roads toward Mount Katsuragi and the Kongō range are narrow, winding and wooded, with tight bends, cool shade and stretches of cedar plantation, where the light drops dramatically. The surface is variable, sometimes broken by roots or leaves, and rain can make it treacherous. In winter, the higher roads can be icy, and some close for the season. Traffic is light apart from weekends, when hikers and cyclists drive in.
The area is steeped in older stories. Mount Katsuragi is associated with ancient shamanistic practices and with the mountain ascetics known as yamabushi, and the shrines at its foot are among the oldest in Japan. The line between myth and history is blurred here, and the legendary first emperor Jimmu is said to have passed through the region.
Spring brings blossom, early summer brings thick green, and autumn adds red and gold to the hillsides. Food is simple: fresh vegetables, tofu, pickles and persimmon leaf sushi. If you stop, take a moment to listen. The only sounds are likely to be birds and wind in the cedars, a rare quality in a country as densely populated as Japan.