Behind the beaches of Sitges, the Garraf massif rises in a block of bare, pale limestone, covered in scrub, dwarf palms and pine, cut by dry ravines and riddled with caves. It is one of the most surprising landscapes near Barcelona, wild and empty, and Sant Pere de Ribes sits on its southern edge, a town of old farmhouses, vineyards and modern homes a few kilometres inland from the sea.
The Garraf is a natural park, and its rocky hills give long views over the Mediterranean and the coast. The famous road along the cliffs between Castelldefels and Sitges, the old C-31, is a spectacular ride, with tight bends, tunnels and the sea far below, although it can be busy and is patrolled by police. Inland, the roads through the massif and towards the Penedès vineyards are quieter, with curves and climbs. On the coast, Sitges is a lively resort known for its film festival, its carnival and its art museums, including the Cau Ferrat of the painter Santiago Rusiñol.
The riding here is excellent, with a mix of coastal and mountain roads. The surfaces are generally good, but the coast road can have gravel and rockfall, and the traffic can be heavy, especially on summer weekends. The weather is mild for most of the year, but summer can be very hot, and strong winds occasionally blow.
Sant Pere de Ribes has fuel stations, shops and restaurants, and Sitges has many more options. A meal of seafood by the sea, perhaps a xató, the local salad of endive, salt cod and anchovies with a romesco-like sauce, is a classic of the Garraf. From the high points of the massif, the view over the sea is wonderful, especially in the early morning.