East of Papakura, the land climbs into the Hunua Ranges, the largest stretch of native forest close to Auckland and the source of much of the city's drinking water. Reservoirs fill the valleys behind tall dams, and the forest around them, of tawa, kauri, rimu and tree ferns, is home to birds such as the kōkako, whose haunting song was once almost silenced and is now recovering thanks to pest control. The ranges are a regional park, laced with walking tracks.
The most famous sight is the Hunua Falls, where the Wairoa River tumbles over an old volcanic rim into a deep pool surrounded by bush. It is a short ride from Papakura, at the end of a winding road through farmland and forest, and it makes a lovely stop. The pool looks inviting on a hot day, but it is deep and cold, with dangerous currents, and swimming is discouraged.
The riding into the Hunua is a pleasure. Roads such as Hunua Road wind through farmland, climb over hills and drop into valleys, with tight bends, short straights and views over the ranges. The surfaces vary, and gravel, mud and wandering livestock are common hazards. Some of the roads are narrow and unsealed in places. On weekends, cyclists are common, and the falls can be crowded.
There are no services in the ranges, so fill up in Papakura or Drury before heading in. Cafés in the nearby villages offer coffee and food, and a picnic at the falls is a popular choice. From the top of the ranges, the views west over the Manukau and north to the city make the climb worthwhile.