There is no real high ground on the Tha Chin plain west of Krathum Baen; the land is as flat as a table, built from river silt over millennia. What passes for height here is the hump of a bridge over the river or a canal, and from such a vantage the view is of water, palms, temple roofs and the occasional factory chimney. The river curves lazily through the landscape, and long-tail boats still ply its brown waters.
The area straddles the border between Samut Sakhon and Nakhon Pathom provinces, and it is a mix of old and new. Orchards of coconut, pomelo and guava survive between the factories, and temples line the riverbanks, some of them old and richly decorated. Nearby, the Don Wai floating market, on the river in Sam Phran, is a popular weekend outing for Bangkok families, with food stalls and boats selling fruit and snacks, and the nearby Wat Rai Khing, with its revered Buddha image, draws pilgrims from across the country.
The riding here is flat, hot and busy, with trucks and motorcycles on the main roads and narrow lanes winding through the villages. The surfaces can be rough, and dogs often sleep in the shade at the side of the road. The heat is intense for much of the year, and the rainy season brings sudden storms and floods.
Fuel stations, convenience stores and street food stalls are everywhere. A meal at the floating market, perhaps a bowl of noodles or a grilled fish, is a pleasant break. Take plenty of water, because the long ride north towards Mae Hong Son begins in heat like this.